Frequently Asked Questions



There are a lot of reasons that give lack of water pressure.

Simple answers for wells: increase the pressure switch setting and at the same time increase air pressure in tank to 2 pounds below cut in pressure.  For example on a 30 / 50 switch the tank pressure will be 28 pounds.  With a variable speed pump which has no pressure switch the setting will be increased.  I would suggest in both cases to have a licensed plumber/well man do the job so that the pump does not work too hard and can shut off.

For city water, it could be as simple as adjusting or replacing the pressure reducing valve.  Lack of pressure could also be restricted pipes: galvanized pipes that are clogged, a gate valve where the gate has partially dropped, pipe size too small, or a water conditioner that is not working properly and is restricting the water passing through it.

Pump size or older pump with not much life in it.


Most times it is the aerator at the faucet spout that is clogged with debris and should be cleaned or replaced.  Also look for kinked lines to the faucet from the valves.  Otherwise see how you can increase the water pressure in a house.


The answer is “water volume”.  It could be that the pipes are improperly sized or you have a supply problem.  Make sure you have a pressure balancing valve in your shower so you do not get scalded when someone flushes a toilet or frozen when the dishwasher is turned on.  This will keep the temperature within about 2 degrees.  The pressure will drop but, you won’t get scalded/frozen.


Usually it is the well tank bladder that has ruptured; the check valve is bad on a submersible pump or foot valve on a jet pump system, or a leak in the lines between the well and the house.  Maybe a rock has ruptured the pipe or the fitting at the pitless adapter has given out.  Sometimes this also causes dirty water, but not always.


I prefer American Standard or Toto.  However, in all cases, make sure that there are parts available to repair the toilet at a later date.  The most popular toilet is an American Standard Cadet 3.  I am not keen on Kohler as they have had parts problems since they sold the parts supply to an independent dealer.


I like both the American Standard and the Toto, soft close seats but any toilet seat with a UPC (uniform plumbing code) seal will fit any toilet.  All UPC-approved toilets are supposed to be universal.  Don’t forget the toilets are RF (round front) and El (elongated)


Usually this is just an adjustment of the trip waste, the lever that is above the drain.  This needs to be cleaned from time to time as it catches hair.


The center flush valve is leaking.  That is the flapper that lets the water out into the bowl when it’s flushed.  Either a new flapper or a new flush valve will fix this.  If the toilet has filled, look at the surface water in the toilet and if possible move you head until you see one of the lights in the bathroom in the water.  If it’s leaking you will see a slight ripple in the water.


Here is a direct line to the do’s and don’ts from the <a href=”http://www.insinkerator.com/en-us/Pages/default.aspx” target=”_blank”>Insinkerator</a> website.  These are the disposals we use.  We sell and install the Pro series which are sturdier and have a better warranty than the ones found in the home centers.  They also have a model for septic systems.


You should have a shut off inside the house.  Turn it off and open the outside faucet so it will drain.  Don’t forget to unscrew the hose or the water will stay in the faucet and it will freeze.  Even though it may be a “frost free” faucet, if you leave the hose on it, IT WILL FREEZE!

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